That instinct—toward rhythm, toward process—would quietly shape everything that came next.

Toward the end of 2022, they started thinking about transitioning into the culinary world but, with no formal culinary training, felt pretty overwhelmed by their lack of experience. “Breaking into a kitchen, especially a good one, felt intimidating,” Kai says.

Around that same time, they started working with Chef Cole Jeanes. Through Vice & Virtue, Kai was roasting a specialty label coffee for one of Cole’s side projects, Bloodhound Provisions. They met and developed a working relationship. In December 2022, Kai helped out at an R&D dinner. “My first job was extremely humble—I put bread on plates and washed dishes while everyone else cooked—but it gave me a chance to observe and start learning the ropes,” Kai says. 

In March 2023, Cole gave Kai a shot with Kinfolk, where they soon became a “biscuit boi,” a phrase that’s very close to their heart. “Learning to make them under Cole was intimidating because biscuits were one of the restaurant’s signature items. That responsibility came with a lot of pressure, but I loved the challenge,” Kai says.

It took months to get them right.

“I had this unrealistic expectation that I’d master them quickly, but the culinary world teaches you patience and attention to detail,” Kai says.

“Now making biscuits feels almost therapeutic. Working the dough, folding in the butter, and watching them bake into a field of golden-brown tops—it’s a ritual. When they come out perfect, it’s incredibly satisfying.”

In June 2023, Cole paused Kinfolk’s residency operations while preparing to open a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Harbor Town. That in-between period—from July 2023 to March 2024—became its own kind of education. Kai worked at Paradox Catering with Michelin- and James Beard–recognized chef Jimmy Gentry. “It was an incredible learning experience because of the sheer variety of food we were producing,” says Kai.

Jimmy is well-versed in different cuisines, and working with him exposed Kai to a wide range of techniques and approaches. It also connected them more deeply with the Memphis culinary community. That’s where they first met Keith Clinton, the chef de cuisine at Chez Philippe.

They also continued doing occasional pop-ups with Cole—Etowah dinners, Secret Smash Society, and Kinfolk events at The Hub, as well as things like the Hunting Festival and Grind City Coffee Xpo. 

A pivotal experience for Kai was the first Etowah dinner they attended in October 2022 at The Commonwealth. “It was the first time I had eaten food like that. Cole was the guest chef, and it was familiar Southern food but elevated to a fine-dining level. Experiencing that kind of creativity and precision was eye-opening, and it made me want to recreate that magic myself,” Kai says.

Kai was soon a “back alley boi,” a nickname for the kitchen crew that started during Laurence Faber’s Etowah dinner in November 2023. Most Etowah dinners happen in makeshift kitchens built in the back alley behind Ugly Art Co., so if you work those events, you’re officially a “back alley boi,” Kai explains.

“Etowah is one of my favorite events in Memphis,” says Kai. “You meet chefs from all over the country who bring completely different cuisines and approaches. Every time I’ve worked, I’ve learned something new. I genuinely think it’s one of the coolest things to come out of the Memphis food scene. It creates opportunities and collaborations that probably wouldn’t exist otherwise.”

Kinfolk opened in May 2024, and Kai was enjoying the new responsibility of being in charge of ordering. But just as the team was finding their rhythm, the restaurant flooded in August 2024. “It was a frightening moment for everyone,” says Kai.

Kinfolk reopened in mid-October 2024, and Kai says it felt like they were finally building something special. “We were creating systems, improving processes and developing a strong team. I also stepped into more of a leadership role, which was exciting but stressful,” says Kai.

In that new role, Kai saw how people thrive in different roles. “Some cooks are great at prep but struggle on the line, while others thrive under the pressure of service. Bakers, for example, may prefer early-morning solitary work rather than the chaos of dinner service. The key is recognizing what people do well and letting them succeed in those roles,” Kai says.

In June 2025, mold issues related to the earlier flood forced Kinfolk to close again. Sensing the closure might last a while, Kai started looking for another job. They connected with Chef Keith, staged a couple of times at Chez Philippe, and were offered a position.

The transition has been fascinating for Kai.

“At Kinfolk we were doing fast-paced brunch service, but at Chez Philippe the focus is entirely on a tasting menu. The experience is much more deliberate and refined,” says Kai.

With that transition came another nickname: bread boi.

“The first major task I took on at Chez Philippe was learning how to make bread. It’s something I had never really worked with before, so I’m honestly proud of that accomplishment. Bread can be intimidating, but I’ve been trying to expose myself to it more so it becomes less daunting,” Kai says.

Chez Philippe opened in 1982, long before Kai was born. “I’ve never worked somewhere so established and stable. It’s a place that’s going to stay open—it only really closes for renovations. That kind of stability is rare,” says Kai.

At the same time, there’s a surprising amount of creative freedom.

“Because we operate mostly with a tasting menu, we have opportunities to try new techniques, ingredients, and presentations. It allows us to push ourselves and create things that maybe no one in the city has seen before—or possibly ever. That’s really exciting, but it also comes with a responsibility to execute everything at a high level,” says Kai.

“At all times, you’re expected to represent The Peabody, and to represent it well. That’s one of the biggest mindsets they instill in you—you’re working for the South’s grand hotel, and you are a reflection of that.”

As Kai’s technical skills have sharpened, so has their awareness of the culture they’re working within and helping shape, as part of the LGBTQ+ community. In many ways, kitchens have historically been places where people who felt like outsiders elsewhere could find a home. There’s a sense that misfits and creative personalities are welcome there. 

That said, the industry is still evolving. “Some kitchens are very progressive, while others are more stuck in older ways of thinking. I’ve seen situations where people simply didn’t know how to address or respect someone’s identity. Conversations around pronouns and gender identity are still relatively new in many kitchens,” Kai says.

They believe that the industry will become stronger as more LGBTQ+ people enter it.

“For me, the best way to contribute to that change is by working hard and letting my work speak for itself,” says Kai.

“But respect is important—if someone doesn’t respect me as a person, it’s going to be difficult for us to work well together.”

That balance—between rigor and care, discipline and identity—is something Kai is still figuring out in real time.

“Overall, Chez has been one of my favorite jobs I’ve ever had,” says Kai. “I’ve really appreciated all the opportunities to learn and refine my skills. Keith is an excellent teacher—he encourages me to think through problems on my own before asking for help. That approach pushes me to truly understand what I’m doing. We’ll often talk through ideas and theories, and at the end of the day, it comes down to trying it and seeing what works.”

It’s a mindset that echoes the way they started—curious, observant, and willing to do the smallest task well and build from there.

Stacey Greenberg is the editor in chief of Edible Memphis. You can follow her at @nancy_jew.

Elly Weisenborn, of Haze Photography & Media, is a Memphis-based photographer from Chicago. She aspires to inspire. @haze.photog