Startenders

These Memphis bartenders are raising the bar

Photography by Chip Chockley

I’ve always believed that cities reveal their true selves at night, and so do people. As the sky darkens into hues of violet-purple, offices empty out and barstools fill up. People take those first gulps from frosty glasses and begin to loosen into themselves—more honest, more animated, more alive.

In America, taverns were once the focus of towns, local watering holes for communal gathering and brouhaha. And bartenders were at the center of it all: recounting old tales, introducing new friends, and slinging drinks, all while witnessing the full spectrum of human woe and joy––the atmosphere thick with adrenaline and Angostura.

I sat down with some of my favorite bartenders (startenders!) around town to talk drink philosophy, nightlife, and the strange ritual of tending bar. Here’s what they had to say.

Austin Weisenborn, Bar Manager, The Lobbyist 

I met Austin Weisenborn when he was behind the bar at Cameo, and this summer his Lobbyist Daiquiri is one of my favorite drinks. Always chill and humble, Austin downplays the title of  “mixologist,” preferring to take the product seriously, but not himself. He stands by the mantra that serving alcohol is supposed to be fun. “You have to match the vibe of the guest,” he believes. 

How do you craft the bar program at The Lobbyist?

There’s an interplay between the kitchen and the bar. I can think of a throwback cocktail we did called “Down in Mexico,” made with leeks, a wild spring onion we use a lot in the kitchen. Essentially, it’s a roasted corn milk cocktail where we take Alma del Jaguar Tequila, mezcal, and roasted corn on the cob and blend it all together. It won Mix Odyssey and was so good that we may bring it back for a greatest hits menu featuring some of our top cocktails.

Where does your inspiration come from?

If you enjoy what you do, you’re always thinking about it. Anytime I’m driving, just cruising along, an idea will pop into my head. The last drink I came up with was a mocktail—a kiwi mojito, or “nojito.” All of the mocktails are named after old-school video games, like the kiwi mojito called “Treenome Village.”

I got the idea because I think about how obsessed I used to be with getting root beer in a bottle as a kid. It started with going to Coletta’s with my family, where my grandma would always order red wine, and I’d cheers her and the rest of the family with my kid’s root beer. 

For me, it felt like I was drinking beer with the grown folks. That’s why we make our mocktails feel fancy. We don’t look down on people just because they aren’t drinking alcohol. We want everyone to feel comfortable and not like they’re sticking out like a sore thumb. It’s like they’re still “drinking with the grown folks.”

How would you describe your style as a bartender?

A cocktail that embodies my personality would be something very easygoing. I’ve learned that nobody likes a bartender who looks visibly stressed.

When I was training with the OGs back in the day, I was told it’s like Jedi mind control. It’s common to hear stories about chefs losing their temper, but we can’t really do that as bartenders because we’re guest-facing, unless you bartend in a dive bar. Then it comes with the brand and the territory.

I like being easygoing, and I don’t know any other way. Seriously, my personality as a cocktail would probably be some patio crusher.

Dealer’s Choice: What is your favorite beverage at the Lobbyist right now? And what would you pair it with?

The Lobbyist Daiquiri, hands down. Our daiquiri has three different rums in it. I made a pineapple oleo for this drink and a brown sugar component that has a cooked quality to it.

I like to go for something that a pirate would drink—something that would cure some diseases.

As for a pairing? The samosas. It’s a fried Indian pastry stuffed with bratwurst, served with cilantro chutney and house honey mustard. There are a lot of bold, bright flavors here, and the sweetness from the honey mustard goes really well with the pineapple oleo.

Taylor Buttrum, bartender, transitioning from Good Fortune to Bao Toan

What first drew me to Taylor “TT” Buttrom was her bright, fun personality and colorful sense of style. She has a unique flair that’s reflected in her drink-making. A wicked palate for all things funky, TT’s drinks are a fun and wild adventure. 

What’s your origin story? 

I grew up in South Tupelo, Mississippi. It always felt very “big fish, small pond” to me. Bailey [Taylor’s partner, former chef for the Enjoy A|M group, and part of the Hard Times Deli founding crew] got me in at Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen, where I worked my way up from hosting to back-serving and then barbacking within the restaurant group. You’re talking about a girl coming from a very country background. I was like, “What’s a French 75?” It was all so intimidating.

Then I saw an opportunity at Good Fortune Co., training under OG opening bartender Holly Jean. My time at Good Fortune cultivated this playful, creative side of my bartending. It’s much more laid-back, fun, and casual.

Moving over to Bao Toan was like graduating and going to college. Tony, the bar manager, runs a very tight ship there, and the standards are pretty high. I’m back in fine dining, and this time I actually know what the heck a French 75 is.

Where do you get your inspo? 

A lot of it comes from looking at other people’s cocktails and getting inspired by certain ingredients. We also come up with cool themes for the cocktail menu—the last one was the Fire Horse menu. Naturally, when I think horses, I think unicorns. I envisioned something on the sweeter side and riffed off the corn theme from the name, which ended up becoming an elote-inspired cocktail.

I love taking food and turning it into drink form. That comes from cooking a lot at home. The whole process is very creative, experimental, and mad-scientist-like.

Do you feel like that cocktail most embodies your personality? 

I would say so. It’s very playful. Engineer-y. Throwing some s— together. Cheeky. But I would also say tiki is definitely my home. Dude, it’s like painting with highlighters. It’s painting with all the bright, loud colors, which matches my personality. Tiki builds a lot of complexity through intentional layering between different rums and citruses. There’s a whole rainbow of things going on.

Is there anything you want to say to the Memphis drink community?

Don’t be afraid to ask the bartender to recommend a drink or surprise you with something. Give them full rein.

Come at me with something crazy. I love getting rum requests or working with a spirit I don’t get to use often enough. I love getting creative with people.

What is your favorite beverage at Good Fortune Co. right now? And what would you pair it with?

“Tongue Thai’d” is my sweet little farewell gift to Good Fortune Co. as I leave to start my next chapter at Bao Toan. It’s a Thai tea–inspired cocktail made from a cordial of coconut milk steeped with lemongrass, cinnamon, pandan, and, of course, Thai tea. The base spirits are Probitas, a white rum from Barbados, and Shakara 12, a fun gold rum from Thailand. A couple dashes of Angostura bitters and you’re rocking. It’s creamy, yet light and crushable enough to enjoy during the summer, just like a classic Thai tea.

I’d pair this cocktail with the vanilla soft serve topped with chili crisp (an off-the-menu bartender rec). You get the spice and savoriness first, followed by the sweet, creamy soft serve that cools you down for just a moment before the heat returns, making you go back for more. It’s this insane feedback loop of spicy-sweet, spicy-sweet, and it will rock your world.

Lili Clark, Bar Manager, Acre

Lili Clark is almost mythical around the Memphis bar scene, with the most welcoming, genuine presence both behind the bar and outside of it. She’s insanely talented and charming, yet down-to-earth and humble. You’ll always feel welcome at her bar, where her enthusiasm for cocktails, food, and good old-fashioned human connection erodes any air of pretension.   

Is there a moment in service that feels magical to you? 

I like when the guests are having a good time and I can get into a flow myself. I remember one night there were a couple who are regulars at the bar I usually entertain when things are slower. Then it suddenly got slammed, and I was focused on making drinks when I looked over to check on them. They were in the middle of telling these walk-in guests some wild story about swingers they met in France. Those little moments of spontaneity and connection feel magical.

How much of what you do is emotional intelligence?

A good amount of it. Being smooth, not awkward, and having fun with people. At Catherine & Mary’s, they used to say we were “facilitators of good times,” a phrase coined by Dakota Mays, former general manager. When I worked behind the bar with Micah (who now distills whiskey down the street at Old Dominic), it felt like we were hosting one long party every Friday and Saturday night. We had a really good synergy, and people loved us as a duo.

What do you think makes a good bartender?

My favorite bartender is Mike from the Half Shell. He’s just so welcoming, sweet, and down-to-earth. When he talks, he’s very unhurried. Now, Mike’s not someone I’d order a fancy cocktail from—just whiskey, beer, wine, or water. But he’s the deciding factor when I’m choosing between places.

I’d say the vibe you bring is the most memorable thing about you. That’s what sticks with me—the warmth in my heart. I remember that more than a fancy drink.

You’re one of the best at radiating that warmth. Where does that come from?

It’s about the connection. What I like about Mike is maybe what I like about myself. I want it to be authentic. Even though you are rendering a service and working for those tips, we are not just here for that. In a restaurant you are always hurrying, but when I stop and talk to you, I want to relax my body language, make eye contact, and pay attention to you. Taking an extra second and making the connection, well, that’s what makes me want to go back to a place. 

What is your favorite beverage at Acre right now? And what would you pair it with?

I wanted to make a White Negroni that still had a bitter component. I infuse the gin with carrot, cilantro, ginger, lemongrass, and coriander. The gentian root liqueur is what gives it that bitterness. I split it with rhubarb liqueur, Carpano Bianco, and Green Chartreuse. A little lemon oil expressed over the top, and there you go. It’s my version of a White Negroni called “Hold Your Horses” because of the carrots, cilantro, and all the stuff horses would like. 

Since it has all those springy, fresh elements, I would pair it with the tuna tiradito on the small plates menu. Tiradito is a Peruvian dish somewhat similar to ceviche—bright and fresh—with a sauce called leche de tigre, or “tiger’s milk.” There’s also a puréed mango sauce and habanero, garnished with cilantro, so you get fruitiness alongside the light fish, herbaceousness, and a little spice. I like the idea of starting the meal with a Negroni and a light, refreshing appetizer.

They say the youngins are frequenting bars less than ever before, and I think that’s a crying shame. Not because consuming less alcohol is a bad thing. But because we must protect our right to gather and coalesce, to look up into one another’s eyes and recognize a flicker of something familiar and empathizing there.

Or as Lili puts it, perhaps the warmth in your heart comes partly from a good bourbon shaken with acid, bitters, and sugar, but more likely, it’s from the ancient and irreplaceable magic of human-to-human connection.

The Lobbyist
272 South Main Street, Suite 101

Good Fortune
361 South Main Street

Bao Toan
1350 Concourse Avenue, Suite 165

Acre
690 South Perkins Road

 

Marissia Tiller is a writer, language instructor, industry rat, and aspiring bachatera. An Italian–American dual citizen with 16-plus years in language, culture, food, and travel, it’s through these lenses that she explores the human condition from all walks of life. @marissia_la_renee

Chip Chockley, an attorney by day, has been a professional photographer since 2008. Things that make him happy include tacos, mai tais, and his wife and kids. @chipchockley