The perfect way to bring closure to a pleasant meal
After a few trips to Europe, most notably Italy, I could not help but notice their late-night eating habits and the length of the meals. The finale of their meal is the time-honored, classic digestif, an alcoholic beverage that is traditionally consumed after a meal to help aid in digestion. This tradition is widely practiced in Europe, especially in countries like Italy, Spain, and France, where food and drink are integral to social life. Eating a meal is more than mere sustenance; it is a social experience spent with friends and loved ones.
I quickly realized that the digestif is the one aspect of the meal that unites the culture of a country with the art of dining.
I’ve tried many different digestifs, but by far the ones I enjoy most often are amari.
Italians have many digestivos, but the liqueur that stands above them all is amaro (the singular form of amari). Amaro, made by infusing alcohol with herbs, barks, roots, flowers, and the rind from citrus, has its origin in ancient Rome. Every region creates its own amaro, generally using botanicals that are local to the area. In southern Italy they create limoncello, a sweet, lemon-flavored liqueur, served chilled. It is a refreshing, after-dinner drink perfect in the hotter months of the year. Another Italian digestif is grappa, made by distilling the grape skins, seeds, stems, and pulp left over from the winemaking process. Grappa is a very potent spirit that has been consumed for centuries.
Amaro has various applications in the modern day. No longer imbibed just for its restorative properties as in ancient Rome, it has a place in cocktail culture. If you’re looking for bitter or sweet flavors, the complexity of the spirit is perfect for building a cocktail. My personal favorite for use in cocktails is Amaro Montenegro. At Bari Ristorante e Enoteca in Midtown, where I’m bar manager, we have a wide variety of amari, from old world amari to some of the newer versions made in the U.S., such as Tattersall Amaro, distilled in Minnesota.
I blend amaro in craft cocktails for its complexity and addition of flavor. A cocktail may be bitter or fruit-forward, depending on which amaro I choose, and I can pair it with any number of liquors. Amaro’s addition in every style of cocktail reveals the versatility of the spirit. I recommend coming to Bari to learn more about the styles of amaro and its applications in cocktails, as well as a little bit of history of each variety.
Perhaps I use amaro more than most digestifs, but it doesn’t mean others are not worthy of mention. In France the most popular after-dinner spirits are brandy and cognac, which are sipped slowly and are made by distilling wine. A slightly warm glass enhances their flavors. The French also make herbal spirits such as Chartreuse, created by Carthusian monks. The recipe remains a secret. The herbs and honey used in Chartreuse give the spirit a strong herbal base that is sweet, smooth, and botanical.
Spaniards sip on a sherry made from fortified wine from white grapes grown in Andalusia, Spain. Another popular digestif from Spain is orujo, a Spanish-style, pomace brandy made from the fermented skins of grapes from the Galicia region. Like grappa, it has a high alcohol content with hints of smokiness.
While the tradition of the digestif in these cultures is passed down through generations, there is science that supports the practice. Alcohol in moderation can help stimulate stomach acids, which aid in digestion. When bitter herbs are added, the spirit not only aids in digestion but also promotes the release of digestive enzymes. The effectiveness of digestifs can vary widely, depending on the type of spirit.
For those who want to explore and stock their bar with these spirits, the selection is growing; many liquor stores carry a wide array of amari and other digestifs. Joe’s Wines & Liquors in Midtown has an assortment of these liqueurs and a staff that can help guide you to some interesting and obscure spirits.
Whether you are dining at home or at a restaurant, you should savor the meal and finish it with a digestif.
Whether the digestif is served neat, poured over ice, or mixed in a cocktail, it is the perfect way to bring closure to a pleasant meal.
RECIPE
The Professional
This drink, created at Bari Ristoranti, is a personal favorite I make for myself quite often.
Ingredients:
2 ounces bourbon
¾ ounce sweet vermouth
¾ ounce Amaro Montenegro
Directions:
Place all ingredients in a mixing glass and stir until chilled. Pour into a coupe glass with an orange twist for an aromatic.
Hunter Coleman is bar manager at Bari Ristoranti and director of mixology and product development at Waymar Gin House. With 20 years of experience in the industry, Hunter combines an extensive knowledge of mixology with a passion for history and chemistry to craft innovative cocktails. @bacchus_at_bari
Chip Chockley, an attorney by day, has been a professional photographer since 2008. Things that make him happy include tacos, mai tais, and his wife and kids. @chipchockley